Adventures in Offal: Deviled Kidneys

Another organ is on the menu, it really is offal. So get out your pan, your kidneys and be prepared to be amazed, you devil.
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Another organ is on the menu, it really is offal. So get out your pan, your kidneys and be prepared to be amazed, you devil.

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Kidney lunch

Just a quick one because it has been a while and I'm on deadline writing about a city I haven't visited for four years. But I made, again from Fergus Henderson's book Nose to Tail Eating, a lamb and barley stew last night. Very simple, and, to use a Hendersonism, fortifying. While up in Meads butchers I also bought some lamb's kidneys.

To follow Nose to Tail still, I halved them so the shape is retained. I dabbed them in a mixture of flour, paprika (no cayenne) and mustard powder, threw them in a very hot pan.

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Two minutes each side, with a good splash of Worcester sauce (lots here – I had to add some at the end, it takes the offally bite out) and I added some lamb stock, although it said chicken. Wait until the stock is emulsifying and then pour yourself a stout (I tried Beachy Head – sadly not great at all. It tasted immature and on the point of fermenting again – although its best is excellent) and pour the kidneys and lovely juice over some buttered toast. Eat.

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