Fish and chips might sound like simple peasant food, but it isn’t. It’s the most diverse meal in the world. Fed from a newspaper cone (as pictured above by Sara Flemming) straight to a lover’s mouth via your quivering hand, it can be a romantic treat up there with caviare and fizzy wine. Scoffed from a car as you stare blankly out to a shingle beach with the windscreen wipers on is a childhood summer holiday memory shared by absolutely everybody. And this stuff – the chips with generous salt and vinegar, the delicate white fish coated in batter and plunged into hot oil until definitely dead and hopefully crispy – can also be incredibly posh food.
Just ask the customers at The Fish Club in Clapham, London. They even have a Skate option.
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